Jeonju Hanok Village Free & Easy: 3D2N Itinerary

Jeonju is a city with rich history and culture. It has the distinguishing characteristics that set it apart from the other cities we are familiar with, such as Seoul, Busan or Jeju Island.

I have been writing about Jeonju in my previous 3 blog posts. In fact, this beautiful provincial city in Jeollabuk-do is where I’d strongly recommend you do a Free & Easy trip, regardless if you are a novice or a pro in travelling around South Korea. 

It is straightforward to plan a Free & Easy trip to Jeonju. If you’re planning a trip to Korea and want something less complicated to plan and doesn’t involve a lot of arrangement in terms of transportation, I’d definitely recommend Jeonju. More so if your definition of a laid-back trip includes wandering around the historical town, and soaking up in the relaxed, cafe-hopping kind of atmosphere, then Jeonju is the ideal destination for you.

Jeonju Hanok Village has plenty of things to check out. And everywhere looks very instagrammable too! The best part? Each site mentioned in this article is within walking distance. Just pack your bag, catch your bus/ train and enjoy everything here right in the village.

This 3D2N Free & Easy Itinerary in Jeonju covers almost everything one should do in Jeonju. However, since I was traveling with the folks, the itinerary is more relaxed. We did not follow the itinerary thoroughly. That said, I’ll still share it up here in the post.

This whole Itinerary includes:

✓Jeonju Hanok Village Tour
(Including Cafe and Street Foods, check my Jeonju Street Food Guide HERE)
✓Jaman Mural Village
✓Jeondong Cathedral
✓Nambu Market + Youth Mall
✓Gyeonggi-Jeon Shrine
✓Omokdae & Imokdae
✓Jeonju Hyang-gyo (Jeonju Confucian School)
✓Must Eat Foods (Bibimbap, Ddeok-galbi and Kalguksu)

Transportation:

From Seoul to Jeonju Hanok Village:

By Bus: There is a shuttle service which is exclusively for foreigners. The shuttle operates daily and would take about 3.5 hours from Seoul to Jeonju at USD 10 per pax (regardless of a one-way or round trip). More information here:

By Train: It takes about 2 hours to reach Jeonju via KTX. Of course, such express train rides come with a higher price tag too (Economy class ticket at KRW 32,900 for an adult per single trip). FYI, the Mugunghwa train would take about 3 hours to reach Jeonju and cost about KRW 17,600.

To reserve a train ticket, simply check the ticket availability on the Korail Train Reservation Site. Do note that your departure station from Seoul should be “Yongsan” instead of Seoul Station. And your arrival station should be “Jeonju”

Transport within Jeonju Hanok Village: 
By foot!

Jeonju Day 1

Itinerary Summary: 
830am depart from Yongsan Station→ 12.30 noon reached Jeonju Station → Check-in at Becky's Gallery & Guesthouse → Lunch at Veteran Kal-guksu (베테랑 Knife cut noodles) → Jeonju Omokdae (오목대) →   Jeonju Mural Village(자만 벽화마을)  → Imokdae (이목대) →Jeonju Hyang-gyo Confucian School (전주향교) → Bibimbap for Dinner.

Check-in at Becky’s Gallery & Guesthouse 백희

Becky was the place I called home for my 3D2N Jeonju Trip. It is a cafe cum gallery cum guesthouse in Jeonju Hanok Village. Check more pictures about Becky and my review here.

Lunch:Veteran Kalguksu 베테랑

A Kal-guksu (칼국수 Knife-cut Noodles) house that started its business in 1977. Very similar to the Chinese刀削面, Kal-guksu is a popular dish at the Hanok Village, especially in the winter. The cooking method is quite identical to our Ban-mian. The noodles are thinly sliced from the dough and cooked in anchovies stock soup. Each bowl comes with an egg, and is drizzled with some chilli oil and some dried seaweed flakes. The shop offers man-doo (meat dumplings, KRW 4,000) as well. A relatively economical meal in Jeonju. Each bowl goes at KRW 5000.

Address:
전라북도 전주시 완산구 교동 84-10.
84-10, Gyo-dong, Wansan-Gu, Jeonju-si. Jeollabukdo.
9am-930pm.

Jeonju Omokdae & Imokdae Pavilion 오목대& 이목대

This pavilion located right beside the Jeonju Hanok Village is a victory pavilion where general Lee Seong Gye celebrated his victory over Japanese pirates in 1380. The general later became King Taejo, the first King of Joseon Dynasty. A smaller “pavilion” beside Omokdae is called Imokdae, where it kept a stone stele written by King Gojong. The Stele is a monument to the ancestors of General Lee Seong Gye. It was originally stood opposite the mountain (where Lee’s ancestors were born), but moved to the current location.

It was extremely crowded during my visit and I wasn’t able to get a satisfying wide angle shot. So here’s two very beautiful shots by Tistory Blogger island 1969, during his visit to Omokdae & Imokdae Pavilion in a beautiful winter.

More pictures along the trail to Omokdae Pavilion:

Jeonju Mural Village 자만 벽화마을

Jaman-Dong Mural Village, a whimsical little village famed for its wall paintings. Steep slopes are probably the greatest problem you’ll face if you’re travelling with the folks, maybe you’ll need to check in with the folks regarding their condition before climbing up to the village.

Jeonju Hyang-gyo 전주향교

Th Jeonju Hyang-gyo is a Confucian school that was established during the Joseon Dynasty. It is known as the national education centre during the Joseon Dynasty. The school was originally located at the Gyeonggijeon Shrine site but was relocated in 1603. I did not go to this place for this trip, so here’s three pictures I found online. But I’ll be back in Spring and hopefully, I can replace them with my own work. So till then!

Dinner: Bibimbap at Hankook-Jib 한국집

There are various places for bibimbap in Jeonju Hanok Village. I had mine at Hankook-jib 한국집, which is slightly off the main streets of Hanok Village, but a brief 2 mins walk from Becky’s Guesthouse. It is quite famous among locals, also been visited by ex-President Park Geun Hye. According to the restaurant, President Park Chung-hee also dined at the restaurant during his visit to Jeonju.

The restaurant provides 3 kinds of Bibimbap, the Yuk-hoe Bibimbap (육희 비빔밥) a kind of bibimbap with raw beef tartare; Dolsot Bibimbap (돌솥 비빔밥), which is served in a sizzling hot stone pot, and Brassware Bibimbap (놋그릇 비빔밥), also called Jeonju Bibimbap which comes in brass tableware, and is said to be prepared based on royal court dish.

Address:
한국집 비빔밥. 전북 전주시 완산구  전동 2가-21번지.
Hankook-Jib. Jeondong yi(2) ga, 21 bonji, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-Si, Jeollabukdo.

After dinner: Rest

Jeonju Day 2:

Summary: 
Breakfast at Gilgoria Baguette →  Jeondong Cathedral 전동성당 → Jeonju Nambu Market 남부시장 → Real New Town Youth Mall (Inside Nambu Market) 청녕몰 →  Jeonju Market by the River → Gyeonggi-Jeon 경기전 → Hanok-Village Street Food 한옥마을 길거리 → Cafe → Dinner at Elu-hwa Ddeokgalbi Restaurant 에류화 떡갈비.

Breakfast: Gilgoria Baguette 길거리아

This baguette is one of the most popular street foods in Jeonju Hanok Village. Since Gilgoria and Dawoo-rang dumplings are located along the way to the Cathedral and Nambu Market and slightly away from the rest of the street food places, If you’re keen on completing your street food tour in Jeonju in a day, I’d suggest you to try out these popular street foods before embarking your excursion of the day. The queues are less crazy if you’re early.

Jeondong Cathedral 전동성당

A Catholic Cathedral built in 1914, in honor of Roman Catholic martyrs of the Joseon Dynasty on the very same spot the martyrs lost their lives. It is famed for its unique combination of Byzantine and Romanesque architectural styles, one of the most beautiful cathedral in Korea. I blogged about the Cathedral earlier here .

Jeonju Nambu Market 남부시장

Located 10 minutes away from the Hanok Village, the Nambu Market is another place worth exploring. Traces and bits of history can be found at the market. Ginseng, Herbal Medicine, fresh veggies and even beddings are available here at the indoor market. Soondae (Blood Sausage Soup) is the delicacy here.

Market by the Riverside

Walking out from the indoor market, you can head towards the river where you’ll see an outdoor market, with approximately 800 stalls along the riverside. It was a late morning (about 11am) so most stores would have gone home. It is quite an interesting place to check out if you are early!

Real New Town Youth Mall (Inside Nambu Market) 청녕몰

On your way back to the Hanok Village, please remember to make a detour trip to the indoor market– the are a more to check out — The Cheongnyeon Mall (or Real New Town Youth Mall),  where you might find some hidden gems.

Located at the 2nd level of the indoor Nambu Market, this place is a cluster for young designers and baristas. Making good use of the aged shophouses, these small cafes, bars, art galleries, board games shops and accessories shops are a perfect mix of the old and new. Certainly a place of exceptional charm.

Below is a short clip by Arirang TV featuring the Nambu Market and the New Town Youth Mall located at the 2nd level of the market.

Gyeonggi-jeon Shrine 경기전

This shrine was built in 1410, and holds the portraits of King Taejo and his successors such as Sun-jong, Cheol-jong, Yeong-jo and many others can be found on display. The King Taejo and his queen is enshrined at the Jogyeong Shrine within the Gyeonggi Jeon. Part of the shrine is destroyed during the invasion of foreign forces in 1592-1598. The current structure that we see now here in the Gyeonggi-Jeon Shrine is a rebuild in 1614.

I did not spend long time here at the shrine despite visiting Jeonju twice in two months. As such, there isn’t any good pictures of the shrine taken by me.  The compound looks identical to a palace, no doubtedly less fancy. Well you can search online for more pictures if you wish to understand more about it.

Hanok-Village Street Food 한옥마을 길거리

You can’t leave Jeonju without trying their street food. If you are a foodie like me, there is no reason for you to go out hunting. I’ve compiled a Jeonju Street Food Guide earlier, I am pretty sure there are more to explore. Prepare your stomach for a feast!

Cafe: 산책 Taste & Walk Cafe  UPDATE MARCH 2015: Cafe Closed. 

A quaint Hanok cafe 산책 (Taste & Walk Cafe) located beside Eun-haeng-Jeong (은행정 银杏亭) is a perfect place to rest after a tiring food hunt. It is a cafe cum Italian restaurant build in a private hanok, with its own garden. Since it is hidden behind an alley, this place is relatively quiet. Coffee and the rice cakes are great. I am not too sure about their pizzas and spaghetti, but online reviews are positive.

Address:
전북 전주시 완산구 풍남동 3가 74-25
74-25 Pungnam-dong Sam(3)ga, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabukdo.

Exploring Jeonju Hanok Village

Famed as the starting point of Joseon Dynasty, Jeonju and its Hanok Village is brimming with that classic, ancient charm. Hanok shop houses, hanok cafes and stone wall trails (돌담길) are common scene in the village. Visitors are also allowed to rent hanbok at about KRW 5,000 for that old Joseon experience. That’s why you see people walking around wearing Hanbok. This city with remnants of beauty left from the past definitely worth spending half a day or more to explore.

Dinner: Elu-hwa Ddeokgalbi Restaurant 에루화 떡갈비

Ddeok-galbi (bbq pork patty) is a speciality dish in Jeonju. At Elu-hwa 에루화, their minced pork patty course goes at KRW 8,500 per person. It was partially cooked and served on a grill to finish the cooking at your table. Salad and other fresh vegetables, together with a few side dishes are served together with the patties. Not a fan of cold noodles so I ordered a mini bibimbap to complete the meal. Nicely scented with sesame oil, we chomp down this bowl of goodness within minutes.

For dessert, head to the huge pots of biscuits and grilled chestnuts located right at the entrance. Those are free of charge! Dessert menu changes according to the season.

Address:
에루화. 전북 전주시 완산구 서신동 932-10
932-10 Seo Sin-dong, Wansan-gu, Jeonju-si, Jeollabukdo.

WHY should one do Free-and-Easy in Jeonju?

It is easy to do a Free & Easy trip to Jeonju, even if you don’t speak Korean. English signboards are available at important places such as KTX stations and bus stations. The Jeonju Hanok Village itself has two tourist information centers (if I remembered correctly) and they offer maps in English. Take the free map in BOTH English and Korean Language so that it is easier for locals to help you around with that map in Korean.

If there is one city to recommend, other than Busan or Jeju Island, it’ll be Jeonju. In terms of convenience, it is just a 2-3 hours train ride from Seoul. The rest of the places are within walking distance.

What is more, there are plenty to check out even within the Hanok Village itself. The Hanok stay is one great experience, renting Hanbok as cheap as KRW5,000 and walk around Jeonju in your Hanbok is another. Jeonju’s local cuisine a nation pride too — this makes Jeonju a foodie paradise.

Most importantly, when you are doing Free & Easy, you get to choose what you want to do, and how long you want to spend at certain places — this is particularly very important to me. Isn’t it a waste if you like certain place and would loved to spend more time there but have to move on to another place just because you are only given only 40 minutes to eat, tour and shop? That’s the beauty of Free & Easy!

What if I don’t speak Korean?

I’d say it is not really a problem if you do your homework — my itinerary above may help you a bit.

The Koreans learn English from a young age. On average, their command of English might not be as fluent, but most of them are equipped with good listening skills. Try to enunciate clearly, especially your “r” and “t”. Use short sentences, and speak in a slow, clear manner. Sometimes “No Ketchup.” works much better than “Please do not put ketchup in my burger”. Singlish wouldn’t work.

Roughly speaking, I find their younger generation speaks better English. Especially those born after the 90s. Korean parents spent 20 trillion Won (USD 18 Billion) on private education each year, much of it on English Education. It is quite popular for them to send their kids to the US, UK and Canada for English summer camp. I have come across Korean kids speaking English way better than our kids at home. My point is, to try speaking to younger Koreans for better communication.

In a local restaurant and surrounded by mid-40s ajumma waitresses? Waitresses at famous restaurants are likely to speak simple English or even Mandarin. If worse come to worst, show them the photo of the food with a hand gesture of the amount you’d like to order.

Have problems navigating around? Always have the Korean version of the address with you — this is also the reason why you can find the Korean version of the address on every single post on my blog. Most cabs here are equipped with a GPS navigation system. Give the address to the cabby or call your hotel lobby/guesthouse owner and let the Koreans communicate.

See you in Jeonju! ; )